Behavior Modification

Potty Training Your Puppy or Dog | Proven Step-by-Step Guide

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Successful potty training in Phoenix AZ

Potty Training Your Puppy or Dog: The Ultimate Step-by-Step Guide for Success

Listen to The Podcast on House-Training101: Potty Training Unleashed

Potty training might be one of the most frustrating aspects of welcoming a new puppy—or even re-training an older dog. Let’s face it, no one enjoys stepping into a puddle in the middle of their living room or finding a surprise pile in the corner. But here’s the truth: with a bit of patience, a solid plan, and some insider tips, you can teach your dog where to do their business and make those unpleasant accidents a thing of the past.

If you’re ready to turn your home into a potty-accident-free zone, let’s dive into everything you need to know about potty training. Together, we’ll make the process as smooth and positive as possible—for both you and your furry friend.

Essential Tools for Potty Training

Before we jump into the nitty-gritty, let’s talk about the tools that will set you up for success. Think of these as your potty training arsenal—they’ll make the process not just manageable but effective.

First on the list is a potty training journal. I know, I know—you might be wondering why you need a journal to potty train a dog. But trust me, keeping track of your dog’s eating, drinking, and elimination habits will make a world of difference. You’ll start noticing patterns, like how long after eating your pup usually needs to poop or how soon after drinking they tend to pee. Armed with this data, you can anticipate their needs and get them outside before accidents happen.

Next, you’ll want high-value rewards. And I’m not talking about those dry biscuits that came free with your dog’s kibble. Use something irresistible, like small pieces of chicken, cheese, or even hot dogs. The better the reward, the more motivated your dog will be to repeat the behavior.

A crate is another essential tool. Crates are not just for keeping your dog safe—they’re a key part of the potty training process. The crate should be just big enough for your dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. Too big, and your pup might decide one corner is the bathroom and another is the bedroom. And avoid putting anything absorbent, like towels or bedding, in the crate during training, as this can encourage accidents.

You’ll also need a 10-foot leash. Why so specific? A leash of this length gives your dog enough freedom to sniff and explore when you take them outside to their potty spot, but it still allows you to maintain control and keep them focused.

Lastly, don’t overlook the importance of proper cleanup tools. Dogs have incredible noses, and if your house smells even faintly like pee or poop, they’ll be drawn back to those spots. Use a product like SCOE 10X, an enzymatic cleaner that eliminates odors at the molecular level—because if you can still smell it, so can your dog. A blacklight is also a great tool for finding hidden accident spots, especially if you’ve had trouble catching your pup in the act.

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The Golden Rule: Supervise or Confine

If there’s one thing you take away from this guide, let it be this: your dog should either be in your sight or in their crate at all times during potty training. This rule is non-negotiable. Most accidents happen when we look away for just a second—maybe the phone rings, someone knocks on the door, or you’re trying to grab a snack from the kitchen. Those few moments are all it takes for your pup to find a spot and have an accident.

Supervision means keeping your dog within your line of sight at all times. If that sounds overwhelming, consider tethering them to you with a leash when you’re moving around the house. That way, they can’t sneak off to another room without you noticing.

When you can’t supervise, even for just a few moments, use the crate. And don’t feel bad about crating your dog—it’s a safe, secure space that helps them learn bladder and bowel control. Remember to always take your pup outside for a potty break before putting them in the crate, even if it’s just for a short time. This minimizes the chances of accidents and reinforces the habit of going outside. Therefore it is essential that your puppy or dog have crate training.

One important tip: if your pup has separation anxiety or isn’t used to the crate, take the time to crate-train them properly. The crate should be a positive place, not a punishment. You can find detailed crate training guides online or consult with a professional if needed.

Establishing a Routine

Dogs thrive on routines. Creating a consistent schedule for feeding, watering, and potty breaks not only makes potty training easier but also helps your dog feel secure. Start by feeding your dog at the same times every day. Put their food bowl down for five minutes, and then take it away—whether they’ve finished eating or not. This might feel a bit strict, but it’s a great way to regulate their digestion and make their elimination schedule more predictable.

Watering should also follow a schedule. During potty training, offer water at specific intervals rather than leaving it out all day. This isn’t permanent—once your dog is fully trained, you can go back to free access. But for now, controlling when they drink will help you track how long it takes for them to need a potty break afterward.

And here’s where that potty training journal comes into play. Write down the times your dog eats, drinks, pees, and poops. You’ll quickly start to see patterns. For example, you might notice that your puppy always needs to poop about 45 minutes after eating or that they typically need to pee within 20 minutes of drinking. Once you’ve identified these patterns, you can set alarms or reminders to take your dog outside at the right times.

Outdoor Training Strategies

Now that you’ve got your routine and tools in place, let’s talk about what to do when you take your dog outside. The key here is consistency. Always bring your puppy to the same spot for potty breaks. Dogs are creatures of habit, and having a designated area helps reinforce where they’re supposed to go.

When you take your dog outside, use a 10-foot leash to give them some freedom to explore while still maintaining control. Allow them to sniff around and find the perfect spot—this sniffing is part of their natural elimination process. But here’s the catch: if your dog isn’t sniffing and seems more interested in playing, chasing leaves, or watching birds, don’t start the clock. Potty time and playtime should be separate activities.

Give your dog five minutes of undistracted sniffing time. That’s usually enough for them to do their business. If they don’t go, don’t stay outside endlessly. Bring them back inside and immediately place them in their crate for 15 minutes. After that, try again. Repeat this process until they successfully eliminate outside. Yes, it might feel tedious, but it works—and it helps prevent accidents indoors.

When your dog does go, it’s time to celebrate! Bring out those high-value treats and praise them enthusiastically. Timing is critical here: reward them immediately after they finish, not while they’re in the middle of going. Rewarding mid-action can distract them and interrupt the process, leaving them with an incomplete bladder or bowel movement.

Handling Accidents

Accidents are inevitable during potty training, and how you handle them can make a huge difference. First and foremost, avoid punishment. Don’t yell, scold, or—heaven forbid—rub your dog’s nose in the mess. Not only is this ineffective, but it can also create anxiety and damage your relationship with your dog.

If you catch your puppy in the act, calmly interrupt them by clapping your hands or saying, “Oops!” in a neutral tone. Then, immediately take them outside to their potty spot. Give them the same five minutes of undistracted time to finish. If they go, reward them as usual.

After an accident, proper cleanup is essential. Dogs rely heavily on their sense of smell, and if an area smells like a bathroom to them, they’ll return to it. Use an enzymatic cleaner like SCOE 10X to break down the odor at a molecular level. Regular household cleaners might remove the smell for you, but your dog’s nose is far more sensitive and may still pick it up.

For the best results, use a blacklight to identify all accident spots. This might be eye-opening (and a little gross), but it’s worth it. Once you’ve cleaned all the spots, inspect your home nightly with the blacklight to catch any accidents you may have missed during the day. This nightly routine is temporary but invaluable during the potty training process.

Leveraging Data and Patterns

Let’s talk about why that potty training journal is such a game-changer. By tracking your dog’s eating, drinking, and potty habits, you’ll start to notice predictable patterns. For example, you might find that your puppy always needs to pee about 20 minutes after drinking water or poop 45 minutes after eating dinner.

Once you’ve identified these patterns, use them to set your dog up for success. For instance, if you know your puppy tends to poop an hour after eating, set a timer for 50 minutes after mealtime. This way, you can get them outside before an accident happens, giving you more opportunities to reward the right behavior.

Data isn’t just useful for predicting potty needs—it can also help you troubleshoot issues. If your dog consistently has accidents shortly after coming back inside, it might mean they aren’t fully emptying their bladder or bowels in one trip. In that case, try extending their outdoor time or taking them out again a few minutes after their first potty.

Positive Reinforcement and Timing

One of the most important aspects of potty training is positive reinforcement. Dogs learn best when training is fun and stress-free, so make sure you’re focusing on rewarding the behaviors you want to see more of, rather than punishing mistakes.

The timing of your rewards is crucial. Dogs live in the moment, so they need to understand exactly what they’re being rewarded for. You have about 1–2 seconds to deliver the reward after your dog completes the desired behavior. Any longer, and they may not make the connection.

To make things easier, consider using a clicker or a verbal marker like “Yes!” to signal to your dog that they’ve done the right thing. For example, if your puppy pees in the designated potty spot, you can click the moment they finish and then immediately give them a treat. The clicker acts as a bridge, letting your dog know they’ve earned a reward even if it takes a second to deliver it.

Just be mindful not to reward mid-action. If you click or praise while your dog is still peeing or pooping, they might get distracted and stop before they’re done. Wait until they’ve completely finished before marking the behavior.

Special Scenarios

While the basic principles of potty training apply to most dogs, there are some situations that require a bit of extra consideration. Whether you’re working with a stubborn puppy, an older dog, or a dog in a unique living situation, here’s how to handle some common challenges.

Persistent Accidents Indoors

If your dog seems to have more accidents than progress, don’t panic. One common issue is incomplete elimination. Some dogs, especially puppies, don’t fully empty their bladder or bowels in one trip outside. This can lead to frustrating scenarios where your dog goes potty outside, only to have an accident shortly after coming back indoors.

To address this, give your dog more time during each potty break. If they pee or poop once, stay outside for a few extra minutes to see if they need to go again. Reward every successful elimination to reinforce the behavior. Over time, they’ll learn to fully empty themselves during their outdoor potty trips.

Potty Training Older Dogs

Re-training an older dog might seem daunting, but it’s absolutely possible. The key is to approach the process with the same patience and consistency you’d use with a puppy. Older dogs may have developed bad habits or negative associations with potty training, so it’s important to keep the experience positive.

Start by treating them as if they’re a blank slate. Supervise or confine them just like you would with a puppy, establish a consistent routine, and reward successful potty trips. Keep in mind that medical issues, like urinary tract infections or incontinence, can cause accidents in older dogs. If your dog struggles despite your efforts, consult your veterinarian to rule out any underlying health problems.

Indoor Potty Training

For pet parents living in apartments or those with small breeds, outdoor potty training isn’t always practical. In these cases, indoor training can be a great solution. Use pee pads, grass patches, or even litter boxes to create a designated indoor potty area.

Consistency is key here, too. Always bring your dog to the same spot and reward them for using it. Over time, they’ll understand that this is their bathroom area. If you plan to transition them to outdoor pottying later, gradually move the indoor setup closer to the door before eventually taking it outside.

The Role of Doggy Doors and Crate Integration

Doggy doors can be a lifesaver for potty training, especially for pet parents who want to give their dogs more independence. But they’re not a magic fix—you’ll still need to train your dog to use the door properly and ensure they’re only going outside to potty, not to explore or play unsupervised.

One effective method is using a double-door crate setup. Position the crate so that one door opens to the house and the other to the doggy door. This way, your dog has controlled access to the outdoors for potty breaks but remains confined when they come back inside. Over time, this setup helps reinforce the habit of going outside to eliminate.

If your dog is hesitant to use the doggy door, encourage them with treats or a favorite toy. Start by holding the flap open and letting them walk through it without pressure. Gradually let the flap rest on their back as they pass through, rewarding them every step of the way. With patience, most dogs quickly catch on.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even with the best intentions, it’s easy to make mistakes during potty training. Avoiding these pitfalls will save you and your dog a lot of frustration.

Leaving the Dog Unsupervised

The number one mistake is giving your dog too much freedom too soon. It’s tempting to trust your pup to wander the house, especially if they’ve had a few successful potty trips. But even one unsupervised accident can set back the training process. Until your dog is fully trained, keep them in your line of sight or safely confined.

Punishing Accidents

Scolding, yelling, or punishing your dog for accidents won’t teach them where to go—it will only make them afraid of eliminating in front of you. This fear can lead to sneaky behaviors, like hiding to go potty. Always focus on guiding your dog to the right behavior instead of punishing the wrong one.

Rushing the Process

Potty training takes time, and every dog learns at their own pace. Rushing through the process or skipping steps, like consistent supervision or confining your dog, will only lead to more setbacks. Be patient and trust the process.

Patience and Long-Term Success

Potty training isn’t just about teaching your dog where to go—it’s about building a foundation of trust and communication between you and your furry companion. Success won’t happen overnight, but with consistency, positive reinforcement, and a little extra effort, you’ll get there.

Remember, accidents are a normal part of the journey. Each one is an opportunity to learn more about your dog’s needs and adjust your training approach. Celebrate the small victories along the way, and before you know it, you’ll have a dog who’s fully potty-trained and confident in their routine.

If you ever feel stuck, don’t hesitate to reach out to a professional for guidance. Potty training doesn’t have to be a lonely or frustrating process—there are plenty of resources and experts ready to help.

Need More Than Just This Article? Get The Book Now On Amazon

House-Training-101-Potty-Training-Unleashed Book By Puppy TRainer in Phoenix Az, Will Bangura Available on Amazon

Will Bangura, M.S., CAB-ICB, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, FFCP, is an internationally certified canine behaviorist with over 35 years of experience specializing in dog aggression, anxiety, and behavior issues. He provides evidence-based, humane training solutions for pet parents and professionals worldwide.

Professional Dog Behavior Modification in Phoenix Az

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Dog raising its paw, symbolizing positive behavior modification training.

Professional Dog Behavior Modification in Phoenix, AZ – Compassionate, Science-Based Solutions

“We do not change behavior by punishing; we change it by arranging conditions under which the learner will do the right thing.”

— B.F. Skinner, Beyond Freedom and Dignity (1971)

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Listen to the Podcast on the Same Topic

When your dog starts showing signs of aggression, anxiety, or even frustrating nuisance behaviors like jumping, barking, or pulling on the leash, it can feel overwhelming. You might wonder, “How can I fix this?” or even, “Am I doing something wrong?”

The truth is, behavior problems aren’t about being a bad pet parent—they’re a sign that your dog is struggling to understand or in many cases, emotionally. And that’s where behavior modification comes in. Behavior modification is more than just teaching your dog to “sit” or “stay.” It’s about getting to the root of their problems and helping them feel safe, secure, and happy.

Here in Phoenix, AZ, pet parents have choices when it comes to dog behavior training. But sadly, not all choices are good ones. Many dog trainers who call themselves “professionals” rely on harmful methods like shock collars, prong collars, and choke chains. These tools are designed to cause pain or discomfort to suppress your dog’s behavior. But here’s the thing: science has shown time and time again that these methods don’t work in the long run—and can actually make things worse.

Would you trust your child to a psychologist who had no formal education or certification? Absolutely not. You wouldn’t send your child to someone who doesn’t follow the latest science or use evidence-based practices, nor would you allow someone unqualified to try outdated methods that could do more harm than good. The same is true for dog behavior modification. Just like a human psychologist, a qualified canine behaviorist must have proper education, certification, and ongoing continuing education to stay current with the latest science and methods for change. Unfortunately, 99% of dog trainers in the U.S. have no legitimate certification or formal education.

The Science Behind Humane Dog Training

Don’t just take my word for it—over 40 scientific studies have shown that positive reinforcement training is more effective than punishment-based methods. In fact, research has proven that using pain, fear, or intimidation slows down progress, causes emotional harm, and increases the likelihood of aggressive behavior.

A powerful example of this science-backed stance comes from the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB), which strongly advocates for humane dog training. Their position statement on humane dog training includes 21 cited references supporting the overwhelming evidence that positive reinforcement is the most effective and compassionate way to train dogs.

Dog Behavior Modification You can read their full position statement here, which emphasizes that punishment-based training, such as using shock collars or prong collars, can lead to unintended consequences, including increased aggression, fear, and anxiety in dogs. This statement underscores what I have seen firsthand in my work with dogs needing behavior modification in Phoenix AZ where I am located.

Here are three key studies to consider:

  1. Ziv, G. (2017). The effects of using aversive training methods in dogs – A review. This review showed that aversive methods significantly increase stress and anxiety in dogs, while positive reinforcement builds confidence and leads to faster, long-term results.

Reference: Ziv, G. (2017). The effects of using aversive training methods in dogs – A review. Journal of Veterinary Behavior, 19, 50–60. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jveb.2017.02.004

  1. Blackwell, E.J., Twells, C., Seawright, A., & Casey, R.A. (2008). The relationship between training methods and the occurrence of behavior problems in a population of domestic dogs. This study revealed that dogs trained with aversive methods showed more aggression and anxiety, while those trained with positive reinforcement had fewer behavior problems overall.

Reference: Blackwell, E.J., Twells, C., Seawright, A., & Casey, R.A. (2008). The relationship between training methods and the occurrence of behavior problems in a population of domestic dogs. Journal of Veterinary Behavior, 3(5), 207–217. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jveb.2007.10.008

  1. Herron, M.E., Shofer, F.S., & Reisner, I.R. (2009). Survey of the use and outcome of confrontational and non-confrontational training methods in client-owned dogs. The study found that dogs trained using confrontational methods, such as shock collars and punishment-based tools, were more likely to display aggression toward their owners and other people.

Reference: Herron, M.E., Shofer, F.S., & Reisner, I.R. (2009). Survey of the use and outcome of confrontational and non-confrontational training methods in client-owned dogs showing undesired behaviors. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 117(1-2), 47–54. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.applanim.2008.12.011

These studies make it clear: punishment doesn’t work the way we think it does. It suppresses behavior temporarily, but in the long run, it creates more problems than it solves. Positive reinforcement is faster, more effective, and most importantly, it’s kinder to your dog. 

Behavior Modification vs. Obedience Training: What’s the Difference?

It’s important to know that behavior modification is NOT the same as obedience training. While obedience training focuses on teaching specific commands (like “sit,” “stay,” or “come”), dog behavior modification is about changing your dog’s underlying emotional state and addressing the root cause of their behavior. It’s like pulling out a weed—if you don’t get the root, it always grows back. The same goes for your dog’s behavior.

When we modify behavior, we’re not just teaching your dog to follow commands. We’re helping them understand that the world isn’t as scary as it seems. We’re giving them the tools they need to make better choices, and we’re doing it in a way that strengthens your bond with them.

Obedience training can be helpful for teaching everyday skills, but if your dog is showing signs of dog anxiety, fear, or aggression, behavior modification is what they need. And it’s not about causing them pain or fear to get results—it’s about working with them in a compassionate, science-based way.

The Pressure Cooker Effect: Why Punishment-Based Training Backfires

“Punished behavior is not forgotten, it’s suppressed—behavior returns when punishment is no longer present.”

— B.F. Skinner, Science and Human Behavior (1953)

Steam releasing from a pressure cooker, symbolizing the build-up of tension and release under pressure.

Think of your dog’s emotional state like a pressure cooker. If you keep adding stress, fear, and pain, eventually it’s going to explode. That’s why punishing your dog for aggressive behavior can backfire. Sure, it might suppress the behavior for a while, but the underlying emotional tension is still there. And eventually, your dog won’t be able to hold it in anymore.

Behavior modification, on the other hand, is like slowly releasing the pressure. It helps your dog feel safe, calm, and confident, so the need to act out aggressively disappears.

Debunking Myths About Positive Reinforcement

While positive reinforcement dog training is a proven, humane way to modify behavior, there are still plenty of myths floating around about it. Let’s set the record straight.

Myth #1: Positive Reinforcement Doesn’t Stop Unwanted Behaviors

One of the biggest myths is that positive reinforcement can’t stop unwanted behaviors like jumping, barking, or pulling on the leash. This simply isn’t true.

Take the example of a dog that jumps on guests when they arrive. Many trainers might suggest using a shock collar or prong collar to stop the behavior, but these methods just suppress it through pain or fear. Positive reinforcement uses differential reinforcement to teach the dog a new behavior—like sitting for love and affection. Instead of punishing the dog for jumping, we reward them for sitting calmly.

With consistent training, the dog learns that sitting brings rewards, while jumping doesn’t get the same response. The behavior shifts, and the best part? You don’t hurt your dog or damage your relationship in the process.

But there’s another danger with using punishment—wrong associations. I worked with a dog in Phoenix who was punished with a shock collar every time he jumped on guests. Unfortunately, the dog didn’t just associate the punishment with jumping; he began to associate strangers with pain and fear. Over time, the dog became aggressive toward anyone who approached him. Why? He had learned that keeping strangers away meant avoiding the shock. This is a classic example of punishment backfiring, causing unintended and even dangerous consequences.

Another case involved a dog that barked excessively at the front door whenever a delivery arrived. The pet parents used a spray bottle to punish the barking. At first, it seemed to work, but eventually, the dog began to fear any sound near the door, even becoming aggressive toward family members walking in. The dog had no idea why it was being punished and developed a deep anxiety related to the door, strangers, and even family.

A dog in Mesa, AZ, had been punished with a prong collar for resource guarding. The pet parent saw short-term improvement, but after a few months, the dog’s aggression exploded. After identifying the root cause—fear of losing valuable resources—we were able to resolve the issue using counterconditioning and desensitization. The dog learned to trust that no one was going to take their items, and the aggression disappeared.

Positive reinforcement teaches the dog what to do instead of what not to do. It doesn’t create these negative associations. Instead of punishing the dog for barking at the door, I would teach the dog to go to a specific place and relax when someone knocks. This method not only stops the barking but also reduces the dog’s anxiety and increases confidence without any fear or confusion.

Myth #2: Positive Reinforcement Fails with Big Distractions

Another myth is that positive reinforcement doesn’t work when there are big distractions. Think of a dog that pulls on the leash when they see another dog or gets overly excited around new people.

Some trainers might tell you that without punishment, like a shock collar, the dog won’t focus. But that’s not true. Positive reinforcement can handle distractions, too. It just requires skilled application and consistency.

Let’s look at how real service dogs are trained. And I’m not talking about those fake service dogs that some people use just so their dog can fly with them. I’m talking about legitimate service dogs who can stay completely calm and focused in public, no matter what distractions are around them. Contact any organization that trains real service dogs, and you’ll find that they rely on positive reinforcement, not punishment. These dogs remain aloof and focused in highly distracting environments, not because they fear punishment, but because they are trained with compassion, skill, and science-based methods.

When your dog is properly trained with positive reinforcement, they learn to stay focused on you—even in the face of distractions. The problem is, many uneducated trainers who rely on shock collars simply don’t know how to teach a dog to manage distractions without using punishment. Positive reinforcement goes beyond just giving treats—it’s about shaping behaviors through a thoughtful, structured plan.

Myth #3: Dogs Won’t Listen Without a Treat

Another myth you might hear is that dogs trained with positive reinforcement will only listen if you have food. This simply isn’t true.

Yes, treats can be part of training, especially in the beginning, but the goal is to fade the food rewards over time, using them less and less until your dog responds to your cues without the need for treats.

And let’s flip this myth on its head: if a dog won’t listen without a shock collar or prong collar on, is that really good training? If a trainer tells you your dog won’t behave without the collar, then they haven’t taught your dog anything except how to avoid pain.

When trained with positive reinforcement, your dog is learning skills they can apply in any situation, with or without treats. Food is just a tool we use at the start to help your dog understand what’s expected of them.

Lead with Love, Not Fear: Choose Positive Reinforcement for a Happier Dog

It’s time to say no to outdated, harmful punishment-based methods. Your dog deserves better—and so do you. Choosing positive reinforcement dog training means choosing a path where you and your dog learn and grow together. It’s not just about solving a behavior problem—it’s about strengthening the bond between you and creating a relationship based on trust and understanding.

Punishment may seem like a quick fix, but it’s a band-aid that often leads to more harm in the long run. Positive reinforcement, on the other hand, is proven to work faster, better, and kinder.

Imagine coming home to a dog that greets you with excitement but knows exactly how to behave. Imagine walking through a busy park with a calm, focused dog who stays by your side, even with distractions all around. This isn’t a dream—it’s the reality that positive reinforcement can create for you and your dog.

If you’re ready to experience the joy, trust, and connection that positive reinforcement brings, let’s get started. Contact me today to schedule a consultation, and together, we’ll create a training plan that works for both you and your dog. You’ll see results—and you’ll feel good knowing you’re doing what’s best for your best friend.

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Counter-Conditioning

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Territorial Aggression

COUNTER-CONDITIONING AND DESENSITIZATION

 (Changing your Dog’s Emotional State and Behaviors Around Triggers that May Cause Fear, Anxiety, Aggression, Reactivity, and or Phobias)

 

CALM DOGS "The World's Best Dog Anxiety Calming Aid or Its FREE." Counter-conditioning Sponsored by CALM DOGS “The World’s Best Dog Anxiety Calming Aid or It’s FREE.”

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  Dog Anxiety Training Phoenix

Counterconditioning and Desensitization

Counter-Conditioning By Will Bangura, Dog Behaviorist, M.S., CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA 

“Dogs exhibiting inappropriate, out-of-context fears or aggression are not misbehaved or poorly behaved-they are clinically abnormal and must be regarded as such.

Q: What are *Counter-Conditioning and *Desensitization?

A: The term counter-conditioning means teaching a dog to display behaviors that are different and or opposite of your dog’s current behavior and response to a trigger. Desensitization is the process of exposing your dog to triggers like different sounds that create fear, starting at very low intensity. Both counter-conditioning and desensitization are used together to change the behavior and emotional state of dogs, especially with fearful and aggressive behaviors and underlying emotional states.

Q: Exactly How Do You Set Up and Implement counter conditioning and desensitization plan?

A: There are many steps involved in a Counter-Conditioning and Desensitization Plan.

  • Identify your dog’s triggers that elicit your dog’s fearful or aggressive behavior.
  • Create a list of these triggers and put them in the order of least intense reactions or behaviors to the triggers to most intense reactions or behaviors.
  • Arrange your dog’s life and routine to avoid all triggers, (initially,) except when doing the structured work of counter-conditioning and desensitization.
  • For every trigger and every trigger characteristic, score your dog’s behavior or reaction to the triggers on a scale of 1 to 10, with ten being the worst reaction and one being the best reaction. Give scores in three categories; (1) Frequency of reaction to the trigger, (2) Intensity of reaction or behavior and (3) Duration of reaction or behavior, (How long does it take your dog to go back to normal.)
  • Study and know your dog’s canine body language such as Stress Signals, Calming Signals, Distance Increasing Signals, Submissive Gestures, and Acts of Deference as a way to gauge your dog’s internal emotional state when exposed to a trigger.
  • Start with the triggers that are least likely to bring about an unwanted behavior or reaction from your dog. Work your way up the list of triggers from least intense reactions and behaviors to most intense reactions and behaviors.
  • Develop a plan on how to make each trigger less intense for the dog.
  • Associate each trigger and each characteristic of a trigger with a positive reinforcer, (ideally the highest value food item your dog loves.)
  • Go slow. Only proceed as fast as the dog’s pace and ability to work through the triggers. (Working too slow, gradually and systematic, is better than too fast, *flooding.)
  • Never allow your dog to be put in a situation where your dog is over the “threshold.” You need to always keep your dog below the “threshold.”

Counter-Conditioning Thresholds

Canine Body Language

FAS-Ladder-Dog-Regular-Version-1_EDITED-1

Counter-Conditioning Working at the Dog’s Pace

  • Don’t move forward in the process until your dog anticipates the reward when the trigger is present and maintains a calm, relaxed demeanor and body language consistently for a few weeks.
  • Counter condition and desensitization sessions need to occur at a minimum 3 to 5 times a week.
  • Keep counter-conditioning and desensitization sessions short and frequent, 5 to 15 minutes long, 3 to 5 times a week or more.
  • Keep a behavior modification journal and notes for each counter-conditioning and desensitization session. Include what the trigger is, what characteristic of the trigger worked on, and note what intensity level the trigger was being worked on a scale of one to ten again, only this time you are scoring what level of intensity you are exposing the dog to the trigger. Include your dog’s progress or lack of progress. Include canine body language cues your dog displays.
  • Take a video of the counter-conditioning and desensitization session for feedback from your trainer or behaviorist as well as your own self-evaluation.
  • Dogs that make little to no progress or very slow progress (Longer than 2 months to desensitize one trigger,) often indicate that there is also a potential neurochemical imbalance and the need for non-sedating behavior medicine in addition to behavior modification. Behavior medicine also increases the ability of your dog to learn and remember as well as balances out your dog’s neurochemicals/neurotransmitters, decreasing your dog’s unwanted behaviors and emotional state.

Counter-conditioning and desensitization are often times done before obedience training for dogs that are so reactive that a trainer can not approach them close enough to teach and work with the dog on obedience.

For dogs that can be approached and can be close enough to the trainer without reacting, obedience training may occur before counter conditioning and desensitization.  Once there are some obedience command behaviors taught, we can decrease the intensity of the trigger by working the dog in obedience commands while being exposed to the trigger and while doing the counter conditioning and desensitization.

For some dogs that already have some reliably taught obedience commands, obedience training and counter-conditioning and desensitization may start concurrently.

Counterconditioning and Desensitization Podcast

*Counter-conditioning is the pairing of one stimulus that evokes one response with another that evokes an opposite response so that the first stimulus comes to evoke the second response. For example, a dog is afraid of men wearing hats. When a man wearing a hat approach, the dog is repeatedly fed his favorite food. The goal is to replace the animal’s apprehension with the pleasure elicited by the food. Counter-conditioning must be done gradually, however; if the process is rushed, the favorite food may take on the fear association instead.

*Desensitization is the process of increasing an animal’s tolerance to a particular stimulus by gradually increasing the presence of the stimulus.

*Flooding in Psychological terms is the process of exposing an animal to a trigger at maximum intensity right from the start.  (This approach is counterproductive and will make the problem worse. It is important to know if you are flooding your dog and to avoid this during day-to-day activities and during a training session of counter-conditioning and desensitization.)

CALM DOGS "The World's Best Dog Anxiety Calming Aid or Its FREE." Counter-conditioning Sponsored by CALM DOGS “The World’s Best Dog Anxiety Calming Aid or It’s FREE.”

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Building Confidence in Fearful Dogs Embracing Routine

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Small dog showing signs of stress with ears pinned back and tail tucked, indicating the need for routine to build confidence.

 Building Confidence in Fearful Dogs: Through Routine

The Power of a Predictable Schedule

For dogs battling fear and shyness, the world can seem like an unpredictable maze. Establishing a routine offers a beacon of predictability in their lives. Consistent feeding times, exercise, training sessions, and quiet time create a framework that reassures your dog, significantly reducing their stress levels. This predictability allows them to approach new experiences with increased confidence, knowing they have a secure and stable foundation to return to.

Key to implementing dog training for fearful dogs and a successful routine is consistency. Whether it’s meal times or walks, maintaining a schedule helps your dog understand what to expect, alleviating anxiety associated with unpredictability. For guardians looking to enhance their dog’s training and confidence, exploring Dog Training in Phoenix can offer tailored guidance and support, further establishing a sense of routine and security.

Enhancing Environment Predictability

Creating a predictable environment extends beyond a daily schedule. It encompasses minimizing surprises and ensuring your dog has a safe space to retreat to when they feel overwhelmed. This could be a quiet corner of your home or a cozy crate where they can find solitude and comfort. Such predictability in their immediate surroundings further amplifies their sense of security.

Additional Strategies for Building Confidence

Beyond the foundation of routine and predictability, several strategies can further support your dog’s journey to confidence:

  1. Controlled Socialization: Gradually introducing your dog to new people, animals, and environments in a controlled, positive manner can help desensitize them to potentially stressful situations, building their confidence over time.
  2. Understanding Body Language: Being attuned to your dog’s body language allows you to gauge their comfort level and recognize signs of stress or anxiety. This understanding is crucial in creating a supportive environment that caters to their needs.
  3. Seeking Professional Guidance: For dogs with significant fear or anxiety, professional help can be invaluable. Dog Trainers in Phoenix specialize in addressing behavioral issues, offering personalized strategies to build confidence in fearful and shy dogs.

Incorporating External Expertise

For pet guardians seeking to deepen their understanding and explore further techniques in building confidence in dogs, reputable sources such as the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) provide a wealth of information. Their guidelines on dog behavior and training offer evidence-based advice and tips that align with the latest in animal behavior research, serving as an authoritative external link that enriches this article’s content.

Building confidence in fearful and shy dogs is a journey that requires patience, consistency, and understanding. By establishing a routine and ensuring predictability in their environment, pet guardians can create a supportive framework that encourages their dogs to face the world with increased confidence. Coupling these foundational practices with controlled socialization, a keen understanding of body language, and professional support when necessary, can transform the lives of these sensitive animals, fostering a stronger, more trusting bond between them and their guardians.

By integrating these practices into your approach, you are not just addressing the symptoms of fear and shyness but are actively working towards nurturing a more confident, happy, and well-adjusted dog.

DOG TRAINING CORRECTIONS

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Dog Training Carefree

DOG TRAINING CORRECTIONS

by Will Bangura, Dog Behaviorist and CEO of Phoenix Dog Training in Phoenix Arizona

We all have had dogs that displayed behaviors that we did not like.  Additionally, we have all struggled from time to time with a dog that perhaps we labeled “stubborn.” If you have ever had a dog where dog training corrections did not seem to work, then this article might be for you and your dog. 

dog training corrections

At my dog training company, Phoenix Dog Training we work with dogs that have severe behavior problems.  Some behavior problems may have been going on for years with little change in behavior. 

One of the first questions I ask dog owners is, “How do you correct the dog?” Often time the answer I get is, “I tell him no.” My next statement to the dog owner is, “how did that work for you?” The answer I usually get is, “he just doesn’t care, he just doesn’t get it.”

Communicating to your dog that it has engaged in a behavior you do not want involves having very regular, very consistent, very clear communication with your dog.

If you let your dog get away with a behavior that you don’t like sometimes and other times you correct it, the dog will be confused and will never learn to stop the unwanted behavior.  You must be consistent.  Correct every unwanted behavior in the act.  If you are not available to correct a behavior because you are gone, asleep, or too busy with another task that you can’t keep your eyes on your dog, you need to crate or confine your dog.  Failure to confine a dog with behavior problems that engages in those unwanted behaviors when you are not looking or not home, will result in total failure.  In this scenario the dog would be corrected some times, but other times would get away with the behavior.  For example, a dog who likes to counter surf can steal items off the counter.  if your not home your dog could counter surf and there would be no consequence.  This ends up being unclear communication, poor consistency, and communication that is anything from clear.  Sometimes the dog gets corrected, other times it does not.  

GUIDELINES FOR DOG TRAINING CORRECTIONS

  • Be consistent
  • Be clear in your communication
  • Be sure the correction is something your dog find unpleasant 
  • Be sure training is regular and has a lot of repetition
  • Be sure its a correction and not an interruption  
  • Be sure to work proactively and not just reactively

I have discussed the need for consistency and to have clear communication.  We need to discuss what a correction is and what it is not.  A correction is not a correction because you say it is or because you think it is. Correction is just a nicer way of saying punishment.  Everyone hates the word punishment, but if you understand the science of how dogs think, learn, and process information, as well as how behaviors are changed, you will understand that there are only two things that are at work here in changing behavior.  There are reinforcers, and there are punishers. Recently I was working with a client and doing some dog training in Scottsdale Arizona and the topic of corrections came up.  The client stated that, “I read that giving dogs corrections are told school dog training and are archaic training methods.  She went on to say, “you can train any dog to do anything with positive reinforcement.”  What the dog owner was referring to is the lie that is being told by total positive reinforcement trainers and most behaviorists in the country.  

Ask any dog owner with a high prey drive dog how trying to stop their dog from chasing rabbits and running across the street with the danger of being hit by a car is working using just positive reinforcement.  It does not happen in the real world with real world distractions. There is always going to be a distraction in the world that has more value to your dog than any food reward or any positive reinforcer.  Its not a matter of if, but when.  You dog looks at the rabbit, then looks at the treat.  In the dog’s mind the treat is worth five bucks $5, but the rabbit is worth one hundred bucks $100.  See Ya later, and off goes the chase.

Punishers, or corrections should not and do not need to cause fear, pain, or intimidations.  That is just plain cruel and inhuman. However, there is nothing wrong with giving a loud NO that the dog finds unpleasant, or a mild leash and collar correction the dog finds unpleasant. You have to temper your correction to the temperament of the dog.

Some dogs have a very soft temperament and you barely look at them and the fall apart; other dogs have a very hard temperament and you could be very firm with them and they are not phased, they think it is fun and a game.  One dog will get a very mild correction, the other dog would need a much firmer correction.

PROACTIVE DOG TRAINING CORRECTIONS VERSUS REACTIVE

Now is the time to talk about the difference between interrupting a behavior or correcting a behavior.  I had this discussion with one of my Mesa Dog Training clients and asked her, “are you just interrupting the behavior or correcting the behavior?”  She was telling her dog NO when it would jump on her.  But it was clear that as far as the dog was concerned the owners quiet and meek verbalization of NO got the dog’s attention and interrupted the jumping for a second, but then the dog jumped up on her anyway. Interruptions are corrections that are too mild.  The dog does not care and will keep on jumping. A correction is unpleasant and the dog will not jump right after a correction. The dog learned jumping on the owner brings unpleasant consequences. 

Changing any behavior requires a lot of repetition. Most dog owners are only reactively correcting or training their dogs versus being proactive in correcting unwanted behaviors.  Some dogs will only engage in an unwanted behavior on occasion.  For example, maybe you only leave food on the counter occasionally, and therefore the dog counter surfs occasionally.  This will most likely not extinguish the unwanted behavior because perhaps it only happens twice a month, but twice a month is too much if the dog is eating tonight’s dinner off the counter.

PROACTIVE DOG TRAINING VERSUS REACTIVE DOG TRAINING CORRECTIONS

At my dog training company we teach dog owners to proactively train on unwanted behaviors daily.  We teach them that we can stop unwanted behaviors 5 times faster by creating the opportunity or “baiting” the dogs behavior so we have more repetition is a short enough period of time for learning and conditioning to happen.  With dogs it is better to think in term of conditioning rather than learning. You and I can learn right away don’t cross the street when there is traffic.  All you have to do is tell us or show us once.  That does not work for a dog.  They have to be conditioned again and again and again, until it becomes so well conditioned that it is muscle memory.  As a result, there is a need to proactively train.

I tell my dog training clients to take about two minutes a day to set your dog up for training out unwanted behaviors.  Lets go back to the counter surfing example.  In this case we would set the dog up daily with food on the counter and maybe even some food hanging off the counter.  When the dog shows interest we correct with a firm no.  Then we bring the dog back in close to the counter.  If the dog shows interest we give a second correction.  If the dog shows no interest we reward with high value food rewards.

We are proactively teaching the dog that interest in food on the counter brings about some unpleasant consequence and that ignoring the food on the counter get a yummy food reward.  We do this for two minutes every day for as long as it takes to get a dog to consistently not take the bait for a week or two.  For more stubborn problems we condition longer. 

I challenge you to add proactive behavior training to see how quickly you can stop your dog’s unwanted behaviors. 

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